for me/ panama article
‘For me, a road signifies escape –
I’m not really interested in its origin or
its ending, only in its continuation
Panama
Panama’s slender canal is its most famous feature, but the
nation is long and sharply curved, such that it places Atlantic waters in the
west and Pacific seas in the east. Back on a bus, I looked out on to grazing
cattle and miles of root crops and fruit plantations.
On breaks I could feel the prickle of the humidity; the mercury
was nudging 30°C.
But beyond were always bottle-green mountains, suggesting the
southern highlands of Panama are well watered.
Panama City came as quite a shock.
You see skyscrapers from a distance and then, suddenly, you’re
on a high bridge over the canal; huge container vessels glided slowly beneath.
I spent a night in the old city and then took a train across the well-preserved
jungle corridor that borders the canal. The next day I came back by road and
stopped at a park to see alligators, sloth, parrots, monkeys and dozens of tanagers
and flycatchers.
I was now on the final straight of the northern Panamerican
Highway. In theory the road runs for around 48,000km from Prudhoe Bay in Alaska
to Ushuaia, at the southern tip of Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. But in
Central America it comes to a halt when it meets the Darién rainforest. I was
quite glad to make it to Yaviza and find myself stopped by the Darién Gap. I’d
clocked up at least 2,700km in two weeks. Had I gone too fast? Had I seen too
little? I don’t think so. Because I wasn’t trying to get anywhere.
For me, a road signifies escape; I’m not really interested in
its origin or its ending, only in its continuation. An ‘open’ road is like an
open book, full of possibility. For a fortnight of freedom and fun, I’d put off
decisions and crises, and indulged in the ultimate road movie – the scenes of
everyday life and natural beauty flickered through the windscreen, always
changing, always new.
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